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Table of contents:
Anatomy of a sock 3
Understanding sock sizes 4
Foot circumferences 5
Childrenís sizes and booties 6
Two ways to get the right length 7
Sizing length without counting 8
Gauge worksheet 8
Length chart 9
Hems & sock tops : Hemmed, 10 rolling, tucked, fairisle, lace
Adding cables 12
Adding vertical fairisle motifs 13
Cast on rags 13
Heels & toes 14
Short rowing 16
Cast ons 17
Top down sock pattern 17
Toe up sock pattern 17
Dying your own self patterning yarn 18
Adding non slip soles to slipper socks 21
Chart of looms, yarns & gauges 21
Sizes include US, UK and EU shoe sizing
Gauges expressed in both inches and cm Should you ever spot an error in the pattern info, get in touch. I will correct it and issue corrected digital copies to book owners.
This book covers gauges from 3-10 stitches per inch which includes yarns from #1-#5. Looms that are specifically designed for socks work well. So do many Kiss Looms and the AKB All-in-One loom. If your loom can knit a tube of fabric [it does not literally have to be a circle loom] and has the right number of pegs to create the sock, most likely it will work. Looms that have an adjustable number of pegs are very helpful in getting the socks sized just right.
Socks in this book are made from knit and purl stitches. Any version of the knit stitch that you like and gets the gauge you are striving for is acceptable. Flat stitch, true knit stitch and u-wrap are all fine. E-wrap is the least recommended because it isnít as smooth as the others. This does not matter much for booties as infants donít walk but for those who do and who wear shoes, e-wrap stitches can create an uncomfortable texture. In certain places in the book e-wrap is specifically recommended because of the properties it brings to a certain situation.
While any yarn may be used, yarns that are a little bit stretchy, fluffy and very strong are desirable. Bamboo, viscose, rayon, linen and such fibers that are known for lovely drape are less desirable for socks because they donít hold their shape as well and fill in the fabric as fully as do wool and acrylic. Many sock yarns contain a little bit of nylon for strength and a little bit of some elastic fiber to add memory, qualities that really help socks to fit and wear well.
Since so many options are provided, the patterns are fill in the blank style. Details are determined by charts and worksheets specific to the yarn, gauge and style selected.
The cast ons used in this book:
Long tail cast on is worked by first wrapping the yarn 3 times around the loom to measure off a yarn tail. Be a little bit generous. Knot a loop into the yarn where the tail measurement ends and hang on the first peg. Wrap the working yarn around the peg and hook over. E-wrap peg 2 with the yarn tail, bring the working yarn across peg 2 and knit over. Tighten the yarn tail . Repeat the italicized instructions all the way around. This makes a very neat edge and is the perfect beginning to ribbed and rolled hems.
E-wrap cast on is worked by e-wrapping every peg once around the entire loom, then working once around using whatever version of knit stitch you prefer and hooking over. This makes a looser edge than the long tail cast on and is perfect for hanging hems.
Free tuck stitch wash cloth pattern:
Tuck stitch wash cloth
Tuck stitches are created when some stitches in a row are ``held`` or not knitted off. This creates a deeper texture than stockinette fabric that is very suitable for washing cloths. This cloth was made on the Kiss 24 peg regular loom without any washers added but any loom that can knit worsted weight cotton slightly loosely will work.
Cast on with the long tail cast on. Seed stitch hem: Knit 1, purl 1 across the first row. Rows 2-5: slip the first stitch, then purl the knits and knit the purls from the previous row. Row 1 of tuck stitch: slip stitch 1: wrap all other pegs. Hold (don`t knit) the 2nd stitch from each end. In between the ends, knit every other stitch, leaving the alternate pegs wrapped but not knitted. Row 2 of tuck stitch. Slip the first stitch. Purl the 2nd stitch on each end, including both of the wraps on the pegs as though they were 1. In between knit over all stitches. Where there were 2 wraps on a peg, knit both over. Repeat rows 1 and 2 21 times for a total of 44 rows. Work 5 more rows of seed stitch as at the beginning of the cloth. Bind off. Use the yarn tail to crochet a loop if desired.
OOPS--my cloth shrunk quite a bit more in length than I expected. I used softball cotton from Country Knitting of Maine and disobeyed my own rule by not washing and drying my swatch.
Next time I make it I will add rows. I have ammended the row count in the pattern above so if you have saved the pattern alread, be sure to update it. Of course, the perfect row count will vary a bit for every yarn, loom & knitter.